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Wine Wizard |
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Sparklers: these ranged from $12 to $40. Frankly, I still like Freixenet (the Spanish Cava house), both of their offerings, one in black label (Cordon Negro); one in frosty glass (Carta, NV). They are right at $10 and quite reliable. No, they are NOT great or special occasion wines, but they are tasty, have good fruit intensity, are really decently dry, even if not bone dry, the way purists demand, and are reliable as stated. That said, in order of preference (I would not drop beyond the first four myself) are the nine I tasted: Roederer Brut Premier NV $40. Classic bubbly. Tart, citrussy but well-flavored, very dry, slightly yeasty, very clean, excellent length. High class, classical. Good enough for really special occasions. Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut Rose NV (North Coast) $19. Slightly floral nose, with nice apply/lemon fruit and fairly dry finish with a bit of yeast. Good enough for group celebrations. Fairly good value, but I would go for Freixenet myself at half the price. (yes, this is rose and the Freixenets are white, but who is looking?) Schramsberg Gosset Brut Excellence NV $30. Nice lemony fruit, but not the zing of the Roederer. If I were going to look for what I regard as a moderately expensive sparkler, I would pay the extra $10 and get the Roederer. Nevertheless, quite drinkable, clean. Guinot Cremant de Limoux NV $11. If you like something a bit different, and with definite, but not too much sweetness, here is your drop at a fair price. Yeasty, toasty nose, toasty palate (yes, really like lightly toasted white bread), slight sweetness, excellent lime and apple fruit. Must be drunk very cold. You will either like this or dislike it, but likely not be neutral on it. Roederer Rose NV (Anderson Valley) $23. Slightly oxidized nose and palate (which some experts see as a good thing but would not call it oxidized of course), lemony tart, dry. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs, NV, Carneros $12. This is a generally first rate California sparkler specialist, but this wine is a bit dirty on the nose. Palate is cleaner with nice lemon and tropical fruit. It is slightly sweet though. If you like the style, price is fair. Duval-Leroy Brut NV $29. Oxidized nose (see above), herbal, medium dry, OK intensity but to pay this much for a wine with an oxidized character – not for me. Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut NV $26. I was looking forward to a nice wine, but was disappointed in a wet wool nose and palate that hid most of the fruit. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut NV $24. More dashed hopes. Dirty, cat pea, wet wool, dull and awful. I regard this as various forms of sulfur contamination. Four new Cabernets from 2006 (also in order of appeal, but note the prices). 2006 Caymus, Napa $70. This is their regular, not “Special Select” bottling, which is more than twice the price. A special occasion wine, but one you will really like if the occasion merits the price (got a grant, grandchild, Nature paper). Deeply colored, forward nose with spice, dark berry, oak, and dill. Palate is lush, ripe, forward, accessible with dark berry fruit, some background flavors of herbal green olive and cedar. Tannin and acid are both beautifully in balance, excellent length. Big and structured but good now. Good enough to serve the Dean at dinner. 2006 Francis Ford Coppola, Alexander Valley, “Director’s Cut” $26. Probably available for less. Deep color, but a restrained slightly herbal nose gives way to very nice, rich dark berry fruit and a nice herbal edge. It is velvety in mouthfeel, with softer tannins, pleasant acid and good length. Good enough to serve the Department Chair at dinner. 2006 J. Lohr “Seven Oaks” Paso Robles, $17. This is a reliable wine I like every year, and remains good value. You can usually get it at Costco for $12. Deep in color, lots of dark berry fruit, slightly herbal on the nose. It is lush (dark berry fruit) and not too oaky on the palate, but may be a bit too herbaceous for some. Nice balance of acid and tannin. Good enough to serve the Division Head at dinner. And one from 2007: 2007 Kaiken Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet $9. The nose has some butterscotch and slight green bean, a bit odd, but the palate is rich and mouthfilling. There is blueberry fruit and vanilla. Medium high tannins and good acid gives it structure and excellent value for the price. |
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