 Peter
WagnerI have to start this month
with a reminder to try and grab the last of the 2004 Grove Street Cabernet
Sauvignon ($8). This wine has appeared in this column more than once. It is
easily worth three times the price. Enough said. Strong, but black fruit
comes first. Structured with modest tannins and just right acid. I look
forward to the 2005 when it comes.
Whites:
Yet another New Zealand SB: 2007 Matua (Marlborough) $8. Just as good as the
mainstream NZ SB’s which sell for $12-15. Clean, herbal/gooseberry,
moderately high acid, grassy – the words are always the same. Identifiable,
enjoyable alone or with food. Make sure the wine is not too cold. Right out
of the frig it will be too tart and too lean. At about 60 degrees the fruit
comes forth and the acid is less biting, and the wine is very good.
2006 Hook and Ladder Chardonnay, Russian River, $13. This wine has a lot of
forward citiric lemon/lime and apple fruit and a good acid backbone that
makes it crisp. However, there is a good dose of oak as well with vanilla
and toast to give a nice, integrated balance to the wine.
Some good pinots are surfacing, but the damn film still makes them
command unduly high prices. But if you like Pinot Noir, here are a few at
reasonable prices:
2005 Fairhall Downs single vineyard Marlborough $22. Quite a big, extracted
style, dark in color with spicy oak and strong cherry fruit on the nose and
palate. Tannins are medium, length is excellent, but make no mistake – not
elegant, but a big wine for a PN.
2006 Clay Hill, Dundee Hills, Oregon $20. Lovely forward red/dark cherry
nose with some spice and oak. Palate is forward but soft in tannin and
balanced in acid. Oak is in the background, the mouthfeel is light but the
flavors are firm. There was a touch of sulfur that blew off.
2006 Foley, Santa Rita Hills, $27. Nose was a bit dull and almost like paint
thinner, but the palate was great with excellent cherry fruit and light oak
and tannin. I stick it in as a good wine, but I would never buy it if I
could get the above Clay Hill for $7 less.
2005 McIntyre, Monterey $27. Nose is better, but the same comments apply –
very nice cherry fruit, good length and balance but too expensive at $27
unless it appeals to you in a special way.
Some other reds:
2006 Don Gascon Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina $9. Dark cherry fruit with a
touch of oak char on the nose, but a rich, full dark berry palate with nice
structure of medium tannin and acid. Great value.
2005 Waterwheel, Bendigo, “Memsie” Shiraz/Cabernet $10. This is a
fullbodied, fleshy red blend that is very tasty and supple, but does not
have a lot of structure. There is a touch of oak char. The fruit is in the
plumy direction, but very pleasant. Thus, drink soon. The 14.5% alcohol is
not evident. Tannins are soft, acid a touch low, but still ok, and the wine
is easy to drink as a result.
2006 Tamarack “Firehouse red” $15. This is a very appealing wine and has
some structure. Get this: 54% Cabernet, 30% Syrah, 21% Merlot, 8% Cabernet
Franc, 3% Sangiovese, 2% Carmenere, 2% Malbec. Nice dark fruit and slight
oak char on the nose. The palate is forward and rich but not over-extracted.
Good acidity makes it lively, spicy and gives it good length. There is very
nice vanilla to balance the acid. It is a medium weight wine that should
last a few years.
2005 Leal “San Benito” Threesome, $19. A bit more expensive, but a very
appealing Rhone blend wine (Syrah 83%, Mourvedre 13%, Grenache 4%). The nose
is intense with lots of dark fruit, vanilla and dry herbs (sage). Palate has
soft, lush dark berry fruit with a hint of green stemminess that adds
complexity. Tannin is soft, acid just right, and the length is excellent.
This wine is ready now, but has the structure to age well for a few years.
|
