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Peter Wagner |
Hi to all fellow winelovers.
This time of year sees lots of new releases. Quite a few seem to be good
value, including the following: California Sauvignon Blancs (I still
prefer those from New Zealand)
1. 2006 Bonterra Vineyards ($10). This wine is 50% Lake County/50%
Mendocino County in origin, and beat out 9 other SB’s (including more
expensive Rochioli, V. Sattui, and Gary Farrell) in a recent tasting of
ours. Nose has tropical fruit: passionfruit and lime. It takes a few
minutes to open in the glass, but then there is rich, clean fruit (also
pasisonfruit/lime with some herbal grassiness). Acidity is good, not
over the top. No oak.
2. 2006 Geyser Peak, California ($10). I have mentioned this bottle many
times before, and tasted again recently, it continues to impress. Clean,
varietal grassy herbal fruit with high acid, it remains very good value.
I do prefer the Bonterra above.
3. 2006 Kenwood, Sonoma ($12). This is the kind of SB that has more soft
ripe melon fruit than herbal grassy tart fruit, so if that is your
preference, this should appeal. There is a floral touch, and evident
richness on the palate.
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Omaka Springs, Marlborough ($11).
Typical fresh gooseberry and passionfruit nose and palate, rich, clean
and with very good length on the palate. Lots of lemony acid too, so
needs food. This recommendation is NOT the result of a comprehensive
tasting survey of NZ SB’s, its is just one I came across and liked.
California reds 2004 Donati “Paicenes” Syrah ($16). This is a very big
but not too tannic wine. Very deep in color, it is very rich and
mouthfilling. Plums, dark berries and a slight citric end due to
excellent acidity mark this wine. Hints of spices, chocolate and vanilla
oak are in the background. This wine has appeal now, should keep a
couple of years, and has complexity.
2004 Minassian Young Zinfandel, Paso Robles ($9). This wine has lots of
alcohol (16.2%). It also has 19% Mourvedre and 4% Pinot Noir, a most
unusual pair of blending additions. Flavors include pruney plummy fruit,
spice, vanilla, slight raisins. However, there is good acidity and the
finish is quite dry. As with any wine I suggest, there is good balance,
depth, and length.
Australian reds 2005 Schild Estate Barossa Shiraz ($17). This is a
classical high-impact wine with all the pleasing attributes we have come
to expect from the region and the grape. There is very ripe, lush, but
NOT over-the-top fruit that is dark cherry and blackberry in nature with
a strong but NOT dominating dose of American oak manifest by dill and
vanilla. Acidity is excellent, balancing the sweetness of the oak and
ripeness of the fruit. Mouthfeel is pleasing with good but not heavy
viscosity, and the tannins are soft, making this very approachable now.
Alcohol is moderate (14.5%), helping tone the wine down a bit. Nice
stuff. 2003 Elderton
“Command” Shiraz ($60). I am assured this is better than the 2002, which
I bought last year—with my own money yet—and love. I have not tasted the
2003, but am certain of its worth. Great now, very ageable in a
well-controlled cellar, this wine has never, ever disappointed me. It’s
a higher priced, special occasion wine, but better than many three times
the price. I present it now because by the time I get to taste it, it
will all be gone. Limited quantities and a loyal following will make
sure of that. Similar words as for Schild estate above usually describe
this wine, but there is much more depth and complexity of structure and
flavor. |
