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Peter Wagner |
Some good stuff is showing
up this month. Mostly reds, but a couple of
whites. Not just good value, but also, actually, good.
2006 McManis Viognier, California. $9. Go after this one. McManis is
making a name for itself and here is another reason why. Unmistakable
nose of Viognier—peach, apricot and even some spice and fig. The palate
has
both elegance and richness with good viscosity. The flavors are again
peach/apricot with very good acidity and no oak noted. The finish is
where I find many Viogniers break down —not this one that has good
length
with decent, lingering fruit flavors.
2006 Kali-Hart Chardonnay, Monterey $10. There is a clear trend back
from heavy oaky buttery Chardonnay starting in California, and here is
another example of that trend. This has a touch of rubbery sulfur on the
nose but it blows off, and does not appear on the palate. The nose and
palate both reflect crisp apple/lime notes, and the oak is very light.
There is excellent acid and little buttery feel. Lighter style, slightly
tart, but good with seafood, for sure.
2006 Domaine des Cassagnoles “Gros Manseng” $8. May be hard to find,
don’t try too hard, but a pleasant, clean, if generic, white wine from
France that has surprising strength of tropical/citric fruit and good
mouthfeel. Not complex, but nice with appetizers or cheese.
2006 Woop Woop Shiraz, South Australia $9. Here is another great value.
Very approachable if simple rich viscous deeply flavored shiraz with
soft tannin, light oak, adequate acid and lots of jammy ripe fruit.
Should be widely available, a great party wine, good enough for dinner
mid-week as well.
2004 Bogle Phantom red wine $13. This is an odd mix of Petite Sirah,
Zinfandel and a splash of Mourvedre. It is serious stuff and well worth
trying. A big wine with lots of dark berries and American oak (dill,
coconut) on the nose. On the palate it is extracted, big, with loads of
dark berry fruit and firm tannins. Rich, viscous, balanced, with good
acid and decent length. Great with grilled red meats, that’s for sure.
Very good value.
NV Grove Street Meritage Napa Valley, $8. This is an oddball - Napa
fruit, a true Bordeaux blend (aka, Meritage), a remarkable price and
“NV” non-vintage. That is, a blend across more than one year’s harvest.
It is really very good. Fresh dark berry nose and palate. It is a
lighter style wine, not heavy, not overripe, with some elegance and
structure. At first it is a bit closed and comes over as hard and lean
and tannic, but give it some air time and swirling in the glass, have it
with food and it really shines with smooth deep dark fruit and nice
acid/tannin backbone. All for $8.
2005 Kilikanoon “Parable” Shiraz McLaren Vale (South Australia). $33.
Not cheap, likely hard to find, but this is wonderful, special occasion
wine that compares with the best Australia has to offer (at much higher
prices). Beautiful stuff, wow. Like Elderton Command for those that know
Elderton, but half the price. Forward nose of ripe but not pruny dark
berries and coconut/dill (from the American oak). Palate is intense,
forward dark berry fruit that is very fresh and lively with excellent
acid and medium, silky tannins to lend structure. Mouthfeel is velvety,
smooth, deep, lush, but not overdone and structured with some
eucalyptus/mint and great depth of flavor. Perfect balance and great
length. You will thank me if you can find it, you will hate me if you
can’t. I bought three. |
