Wine Wizard

Peter Wagner


Peter Wagner

Sports Illustrated has its annual swimsuit issue; I have the annual Charles Shaw issue, and this is it. Charles Shaw, better known as “Two Buck Chuck” sells half a dozen varietals for $1.99 plus tax through the Trader Joe grocery chain. Here are the current releases:

2005 Charles Shaw Sauvignon Blanc. Peaches (unusual, but OK) and sulfur (not OK) on nose and palate. Melon and lychee too. Finish is a bit hard and short. OK for $2 if you are insensitive to sulfur, otherwise leave it alone.

2004 Charles Shaw Chardonnay. Spicy oak, vanilla, sage on nose, not much fruit. Palate has good if generic fruit on entry, but the fruit fades quickly to a short slightly bitter finish. At least, no sulfur. Fair for $2.

2004 Charles Shaw Merlot. Sulfur again, plus black cherry and green pepper (OK for merlot) palate is soft and the fruit is surprisingly good. Tannins are medium low and the finish is quite good. This is the best of the five this year, good value for $2 once the sulfur swirls off.

2003 Charles Shaw Cabernet. Sulfur again. Red and black cherry palate, moderate high tannin for the fruit, earthy and a bit dirty. Finish is lean, rough and hard. Not recommended.

2005 Charles Shaw Shiraz. Heavy, persistent sulfur on the nose and palate makes this one to avoid. Try again next year, as last year’s was quite good.

Now allow me to recommend a real winner:

2004 Hahn meritage ($10-$15). This wine was great last year as well. Hahn has found something here. A blend of Bordeaux varietals, this wine has excellent red and dark fruit concentration, pleasant vanilla oak and spice in the background, and very good length on the palate. It all comes together nicely, and is terrific value at the price.


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