The Wine Wizard


Peter Wagner

Not having received personal threats from any of you, I dare to do it again for this issue of The Physiologist. As I mentioned before, locating specific wines can be difficult. The internet and your local wine shop are good sources for finding wines that don’t appear on the supermarket shelf. Here we go:

White wines:
Several terrific New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs are reaching the USA in significant volume and are all well-worth trying to find. Those of special note are:
a) Villa Maria 2005 private bin ($10-13). Great value, bursting with gooseberry, herbal, grassy fruit, solid structure and mouth feel, and good but not mouth puckering acidity. Clean, very good length. Outstanding.
b) Saint Clair 2004 (2005 should soon be here) ($12-15). Almost as good as Villa Maria, same style, same comments but just 3+ rather than 4+ on all fronts.
c) Babich 2004 or 2005 ($9-12) same level as Saint Clair, and again with all the juicy herbal lime/passion fruit/gooseberry fruit and acid that makes the NZ SB’s so desirable.
Remember, drink young and cool, not cold (the wine should be young and cool, you do not have to be). I promise to move to other white varietals next time.

Red
wines:
Just as I dream of NZ SB’s, I dream of Australian Shiraz’s. The same grape as Syrah in France, in Oz they make this their specialty in red wines. The very best are unaffordable but there is a whole bag full of delicious Shiraz at $10-20 available now. They may not be easy to find in quantity, but if you do you will be happy if you like big, juicy, fruit-driven (usually blackberry) reds that have very evident but balanced (usually American) oak flavors of dill and vanilla, and generally soft tannins for the strong fruit. Look for current vintages of Penfolds Kalimna bin 128 ($15-20); Penfolds bin 389 Shiraz/Cabernet blend ($20-25), Step Road 2003 ($14-16); Pirramimma 2001 or so ($16-20); Peter Lehman any vintage ($15-20). In fact, you will likely not go wrong with any Australian Shiraz in this price range. They will vary in detail and perhaps in “bigness,” but they are almost always well-made and easy to drink. So try any you can find and judge for yourself. By the way, if you can afford the unaffordable, you can try Penfolds Grange, Henschke Hill of Grace, Elderton Command, Leasingham Classic Clare, Lindemans Limestone Ridge. These Shiraz are listed in decreasing order of price from about $300 to about $40 a bottle, and are very hard to find.


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